Two Weeks on the South Island: How to Spend 2 Weeks in New Zealand

Guest post by freelance writer Chase Dost | All images from Upsplash

By now, we all know New Zealand is beautiful. Whether you learned that by watching the Lord of the Rings trilogy (hello, Middle-earth) or through its thriving eco-tourism industry, the fact remains: New Zealand’s natural beauty is unmatched, and everyone wants to visit.

I’ve been to New Zealand twice before, for a study-abroad semester in 2014 and as a “congrats, you finished grad school” gift to myself in 2019. In total, I’ve spent almost 8 months on the South Island. It’s hands down my happy place, my dream home, my favorite place in the world.

The bottom line? New Zealand lives up to the hype and then some. Here’s a 14-day itinerary for the South Island that will have your nature-loving self head over heels for Aotearoa, the land of the long white cloud.

Days 1 + 2: Christchurch

For travel ease, we start and end in Christchurch, the biggest city on the island. The name of the game on the South Island is TAKE THE BUS. Intercity and NakedBus can offer incredible rates when you book ahead (seriously, I’ve gotten $1 fares before). Most buses have free wifi and will stop for morning and/or afternoon tea, so you’ll have ample opportunity to stretch your legs and grab a snack.

I can’t describe it, but Christchurch just has a great vibe. In the city center, you’ll still find earthquake damage and the occasional empty storefront, but this town’s coming back in a major way. The Botanic Gardens are free and a must-see even in winter, and the city center is super walkable. Ride the tram for a city tour, or hit up Cathedral Square on Fridays for delicious street food. I’m also a huge fan of Little High Eatery, a hip indoor food court with great, affordable meals from nine local businesses.

For Tolkien fans or folks looking to hike in the Southern Alps of Canterbury, check out this tour of Mt. Sunday. It’s a stunning day trip filled with mirror-perfect glacial lakes, awesome behind-the-scenes movie info, and a hike up Edoras, the capital of Rohan!

Day 3: Kaikoura + Picton

On Day 3, get ready for your first bus ride. Your final destination today is Picton, a small town at the top of the island where you can take a ferry to Wellington and the North Island. Stop for a wildlife tour in Kaikoura to see seals, dolphins, and more along the coast, or simply enjoy the beach while stopping for morning tea.

If you have the energy, tackle one of Picton’s short (or long!) hiking tracks to get amazing views of the bay. If you’re visiting during winter (June-August in New Zealand), you’ll likely have these trails to yourself—and most of the coffee shops, too! For hostel-goers, I recommend the Tombstone Lodge; it has great views of Picton and the bay, and the owners are super nice and welcoming. They even gave me a lift to the bus stop on my way to Nelson!

Days 4 + 5: Nelson + Abel Tasman

Next up is Nelson, home of my personal favorite New Zealand history museum, the Nelson Provincial Museum. There are plenty of short tracks to hike in the hills around town, but Founders Heritage Park is pretty cool, too—especially if you’re a fan of places like Colonial Williamsburg.

On Day 5, hop on a bus bright and early and head to Abel Tasman National Park. There are plenty of day trips that will pick you up in Nelson, so find the one that’s right for you. The Abel Tasman Coast Track is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks and takes 3-5 days in total. If you’re on a schedule like us, however, a day trip will let you walk the last day of the trail, and it’s just stunning. You walk along the coast the whole time, exploring the beaches and rainforest and stumbling across the most incredible views. Be sure to heed the tsunami warning signs; if you feel an earthquake, head to higher ground!

Days 6 + 7: Down the West Coast to Franz Josef

After Nelson, you’ll need to make your way down the West Coast. I stopped at the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers en route to Queenstown. Small towns are nestled close to both glaciers and offer everything from shuttle rides to the hiking trails to helicopter excursions to the tops of the glaciers. I was only able to hike up to Franz Josef, because I traveled in winter and the Fox Glacier was snowed in and closed to travel.

If possible, do your glacier hike early in the day. The valley leading up to Franz Josef is stunning and deceptively big; what look like narrow streams in the distance are really wide rivers that can carry bus-sized chunks of ice as the glacier melts during the day. As you move along the trail, you’ll see signs showing you where the glacier used to be. It’s striking seeing how rapidly the glacier has receded due to climate change. Soon, they’ll likely have no choice but to cease the helicopter rides as the glacier grows less stable.

Day 8: Queenstown

Queenstown used to be my favorite place in New Zealand. In 2014, I spent four weekends there, enjoying the view of the Remarkables against glacial lakes. If you’re into winter sports, Queenstown is the place for you. Do any number of skiing trips, or hit up Nomad Safaris for one of their incredible Lord of the Rings tours.

Initially, I was tempted to give Queenstown more time on this itinerary. Unlike most of the South Island, it’s packed with tourists during winter. There’s certainly plenty to do, but I would opt to spend more time in the less-crowded (but no less beautiful) towns of Wanaka and Tekapo.

Day 9: Milford Sound + Back to Queenstown

Before you leave Queenstown, do a day trip to Milford Sound and Te Anau. Unfortunately, I tried and failed twice to visit Milford Sound, because I’ve mostly been in New Zealand during the colder months. Both times I scheduled a day trip, the road to Te Anau was impassable due to snow. However, Intercity was more than happy to give me a full refund both times, and I spend my days doing different Lord of the Rings tours around Queenstown, instead!

If you want to do any Lord of the Rings tours on the South Island, Queenstown is where to do it. The Christchurch day trip to Mt. Sunday is incredible, but a huge chunk of filming was done in the area surrounding Queenstown. As a lifelong Tolkien fan, it was just too cool visiting the real Ford of Bruinen, Amon Hen, Ithilien, and more.

Days 10 + 11: Wanaka

Wanaka is known for two things in the tourist world: #ThatWanakaTree and Roy’s Peak. The tree, you’ll find at the southern edge of the lake. Unfortunately, it’s always surrounded by tourists, even if the rest of town looks abandoned. It’s a beautiful lone willow standing in the water, its roots below the surface. You can follow a lakeshore track past it for a short and easy hike…or you can tackle Roy’s Peak.

Roy’s Peak is very popular in the social media world, and for good reason: the views at the summit are unmatched. It’s a long hike, so the recommendation is to start early in the morning. If you want great views but are intimidated by Roy’s Peak, try the Mt. Iron Trail. It’s still a work-out, but you can hike it in half the time and enjoy panoramic views of the lake and land around Wanaka. Bonus points: it’s down the road from a lavender farm!

Day 12: Mount Cook

In Queenstown, you began a diagonal bus ride that will take you all the way back to Christchurch. The first stop was Wanaka, but now it’s time for Mount Cook, the highest peak in New Zealand. Also called Aoraki, Mount Cook is home to another national park with amazing hikes and even better views.

Fun fact: once you’re in the Mount Cook/Tekapo region, you’re also very close to the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers again. The South Island is pretty small and very narrow, so even though you can’t drive straight from Franz Josef to Mount Cook (the mountains get in your way), you could fly between them easily.

Day 13: Tekapo

Now, Tekapo…Tekapo is my favorite place in New Zealand. It took the prize from Queenstown the second time I visited in 2019. It’s well-known in the tourist world as one of the best spots to view the stars at night. Get a shuttle bus to the Mt. John Observatory in the middle of the night for the greatest galaxy views of your life—just pray there are no clouds!

The Mt. John hiking trail is probably my favorite hike ever. I recommend starting on the lake side rather than the observatory side. The lake side offers you a much gentler (and more enjoyable) incline, whereas once you reach Mt. John, it’s a very steep decline to the ground. Or if you’re up for the challenge, summit Mt. John first and enjoy an easy, relaxing walk back to the bottom.

All seasons are beautiful at Lake Tekapo, but if you visit in November, you’ll get to see the lupins bloom. They cover the hills in stunning pinks and purples, and it’s very much a personal goal of mine to see them in person.

Day 14: Return to Christchurch

Our final day takes you back to Christchurch, and all the possibilities it offers. Will you fly home, or hop on over to the North Island? Air New Zealand often has great deals between Christchurch, Wellington, and Auckland (I once flew to Wellington for less than $30 USD). I definitely recommend visiting the North Island; Lake Taupo, Rotorua, and Hobbiton in Matamata are not to be missed!

Traveling the South Island is a life-changing experience, in my humble opinion. You don’t know how beautiful the natural world can be until you’ve seen it for yourself. And now, you have the must-see natural highlights! So go ahead, plan that trip—and when you finally land in New Zealand, say “kia ora” for me.

About Chase Dost:

Chase is a full-time Tolkien enthusiast who makes his living in marketing. He holds a BA in Religious Studies from the College of William & Mary and a Master of Divinity from Princeton Theological Seminary, with concentrations in Judaic Studies and Church History. He would be remiss if he didn't state the urgent need for climate action. There is no Planet B.

View his website here for your creative writing and marketing needs.